the legendary craft of byssus cloth waving .....................................................................................................................................................................

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the legendary craft of byssus cloth waving
/ chiara vigo

- august 2002 -

the swedish naturalist carl linnaeus, also known as
carl von linné or carolus linnaeus (1707-1778)
first described the species in 1758.
it is an endemic species of the mediterranean,
belonging to the family of pinnidae.
this large, brown fan-shaped bivalve shellfish,
one of the largest in the world,
can reach a breadth of 1,2 metres.
its habitat is in the coastal region, on the shoals
that are either sandy or overgrown by sea-flowering plants.
it is found mainly in south italy /sardinia, but also in
france /around the mediterranean islands (corsica ...),
on the coasts of yugoslavia, in north-africa, etc.

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byssus threads
the pen shell has a byssus gland that secretes byssus,
an organic maner that hardens in contact with water
and forms threads that help fasten the valves
to the base. the fan mussel lives half buried in
the sediment where it finds nourishment and shelter.
like many other organisms it remains anached to the
same substratum in the same place, almost stationary,
to the end of its life.
it can, however, use its foot to move slowly and in
limited fashion. this means that the fan mussel can be
found at different depths depending on age.
during the larva stadium it spends its life swimming freely.
the young individuals being found near the surface,
while the older individuals live at a depth of approximately
40 metres.

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the decline in populations
threatened with extinction for some forty years -
it is partly due to the decline in the posidonia oceanica
seagrass meadows.
trawling, anchoring of yachts, various pollutants, sea resort
and other developments, as well as unauthorized fishing by
certain divers, have all contributed to accelerating the
decline of this species.
the decline in the seagrass has serious implications for
the fan mussel whose highly specific ecology and
metabolism renders its reproduction difficult.

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reproduction
the eggs mature and the larvae develop in the open seas.
then, made heavy by a thin calcitic shell following its planktonic
phase, the larva falls to the bottom where it attaches itself.
at this stage it measures approximately 2 cm and has a
transparent and fragile shell, which leaves the animal prey
to numerous predators, such as octopus, sea bream, etc.
the mortality rate at this stage is therefore high.


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the pen shell (pinna nobilis)


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a legend, tale, fable, allegory, fiction, half-truth,
nonsense, superstition ...?
see the history of byssus cloth


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it must be spinned according to the mooon
see how to manufacture byssus threads





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chiara vigo and the pen shell




designboom is meeting chiara in front of her studio in sant'antioco, sardinia




the lion, an ancient symbol of female power
(... triumphs over the male energies, signifies
also the triumph of celestial light over chronic
darkness)




a close up on the iconic lion.
it is one of the rare examples chiara worked out of byssus cloth. it is not for sale, but manufactured in order to protect all women.




detail of the byssus warps.