the couturier showed on tuesday what may have been his last high-fashion collection.the possible demise of the christian lacroix label shows how there is no middle ground in haute couture. labels struggle to survive except as part of large, multiproduct fashion corporations with deep pockets and a global marketing machine – or as niche players with low overheads and a cult following. the brand expanded over the last three years in the U.S., but didn’t have the support of a large fashion player willing to absorb successive losses and the cost of development.

the christian lacroix haute couture 2009–2010 fashion collection in paris was a show of pride as much as it was a fashion show. money was so tight that lacroix’s friends and supporters had to pitch in to make the show happen. a prestigious embroidery house worked for free, painstakingly applying rhinestones and tone-on-tone embroidery the label is known for; the maison roger vivier provided the shoes and donated the models’ towering heels. makeup artists and hairdressers cut their fees and lacroix dipped into his own pocket to pay them. the location was given free of charge. even his local café provided the backstage ‘buffet’ – crudités, fruit and mineral water – for nothing. only the show’s 12 models were paid. in the end, just 24 creations made it to the catwalk – each an exquisite, if toned down example of the artistry and creativity which has marked lacroix’s career.

image © christian lacroix

last fashion show of christian lacroix in parisimage © christian lacroix

last fashion show of christian lacroix in parisimage © 2009 AFP last fashion show of christian lacroix in parisimage © 2009 the associated press