mathieu lehanneur's scenography for 'playground

mathieu lehanneur has conceived the scenography for ‘playground’, an exhibition that explores the design of sneakers. hosted at bordeaux’s musée des arts décoratifs et du design, the display includes over 600 pairs of footwear, films, archive documents, photographs, and personal accounts. through a selection of around 50 iconic models from 1900 to the present day, visitors discover the landmark designs in the evolution of the sneaker. the display also charts the item’s move from the sporting arena to the street, and the relationship that footwear had with counter-cultures in the united states and europe in the 1970s.

sneakers for winners and from the podium to the runway (general view)
all images © alastair philip wiper

the second part of the exhibition looks back at the key innovations that have shaped the history of the sneaker industry since its inception. visitors will discover the research carried out by major brands and their rush to bring new technologies to market. today, this trend addresses ethical fashion and sustainability and inspires the imagination of students at leading fashion schools.

sneakers for winners (general view)

mathieu lehanneur’s scenography design begins at the entrance to the musée des arts décoratifs et du design, where the building’s courtyard has been transformed into a basketball court. instantly establishing a contrast between the stone structure and the all-black playground, lehanneur wanted to open the museum to the outdoors, turning the paved courtyard into a space for interaction. ‘the street, the sports ground, the museum…the sneaker has a magical ability to unite the seemingly incompatible,’ says the designer.

innovations in the production

housed within a former jail, the scenography of the exhibit comprises a series of abstract geometrical forms. spread out to occupy two large main courtyards, the selection of iconic sneakers is organized according to different themes: from the olympic games to high fashion; from skateboarding to basketball; from the 1920s to 2020. visitors stroll through an array of sculptural installations, which all overlaid with subtly varied colors. ‘the subject matter is light but encompasses all the challenges of the modern era, from identity to ecology, from entertainment to conflict,’ lehanneur continues.

skate culture

this notion of conflict is evoked in the logo-covered white sacks that punctuate the exhibition, like sandbag barricades recalling battlefields or urban uprisings. the shapes, colors and materials enter into visual resonance within the stark walls of the jail. the final section of the exhibition examines the the research that goes into creating today’s athletic footwear. around a large round table, visitors of all ages can leave their mark, and share their ideas as part of the long saga of the sneaker.

from the podium to the runway, when luxury teams up with sportswear

‘most museum exhibitions recount what happened, the history of the subject matter,’ states mathieu lehanneur, ‘but the history of sneakers is still being written, on our feet, in the shops and in the sports arenas. rather than ‘freezing’ it in time, I wanted to recount this ongoing transformation. the goal here is to elucidate the past in order to encourage better decisions for the future.’

sneakers for winners (general view)

‘playground — the design of sneakers’ remains on view at the musée des arts décoratifs et du design in bordeaux until january 10, 2021.

sneakers for winners: the aura of the olympic games

the design of sports

stan smith, adidas, 1978
signed by stan smith
musée national du sport, nice – madd-bordeaux

theseus spikes, puma, 2008
signed by usain bolt, gold metal at beijing olympic games (100m), 2008
puma archive – madd-bordeaux

spikes shoes, gebrüder sassler sportschuhfabrik, 1936
puma archive – madd-bordeaux

vicious, adidas x rick owens, 2014
archives rick owens – madd-bordeaux

air jordan’s design

a basketball court in the main courtyard of the museum

exhibition info:

name: playground – the design of sneakers
venue: le musée des arts décoratifs et du design, bordeaux, france
dates: on view until january 10, 2021
curator of the exhibition and director of the madd-bordeaux: constance rubini, assisted by étienne tornier
scenography of the exhibition: mathieu lehanneur, assisted by arthur fosse